Sunday, October 26, 2014

Arrowhead and Pine Tree Pendants with Riveted Bales

I've been working through some different ideas recently.  I've wanted to make larger bales and rivet them to the pendants.  I'm continuing to experiment with different sizes of bales and they usually start out with a sketch, then I cut them out and fold them to get a good estimate of how they will look.  I then use the cut out as a template, draw around it directly onto my metal with a Sharpie and saw away.

The Sharpies are great and I have them in fine and thicker tips in various colors.  I have them everywhere...  On my table, in my bag, with my tools, tool box, on the counter... all over the place.  A Sharpie will create a block for your patina to take hold, so make sure you sand it off or use nail polish remover to get it off.  If you don't you will have black patina and then notice some red or an off color in your recessed areas.  Just make sure to get the pen marks off the metal before you patina.

The handmade bales add some more interest to the pendants.  A jump ring or an oval jump ring are very basic.  I also milled the same texture to the bale metal as I used for the pendant backings.

You drill three holes and hope that somehow it will all match up with some adjusting and you then thread the right size silver wire through that matches the size of the drill bit used.  The fit for the wire to get through the metal needs to be very snug so the metal does not start to bend when hammering.  Hey, it still seemed to bend a bit, but it can be pushed back with some of the plastic type wire straightening pliers.  If you don't have those, it's always safe to use tools with a little masking tape wrapped around them so you won't scratch the metal.  Anyway,  hammer back and forth, flipping your piece back and forth and work at it slowly.

I also place a piece of index or heavy card stock under my metal to ensure I'm not scratching the reverse side of the pendant.  It's a trick to hang the bale off the edge of your little anvil because it's no longer flat.  Hanging it over the edge will make sure the large bale isn't an issue while your pendant lays flat.

I hammered the arrowhead to give it the look of flintknaping.  There are various types of hammers that will give your pieces added texture.  You just have to find the right one that works for your piece.

I added the patina and then removed it as usual.  I didn't want to leave a dark area in the center of the tree and removed some of it.  I then thought it was too light...  I then decided to add more patina with a Q-tip to the recessed area and it started to turn a blue/green.  Nice, I'll take it!  You never know what kinds of colors will appear.  I do know that if you have what I call the peacock colors and you add too much patina, it can turn brownish or just dark.  I wanted more green, but I stopped right there...  You have to be able to say this is good enough and stop.  It's not easy, but many times with the jewelry, to much of a good thing, is overdone and you can loose your look.  Let go of the perfection and say, "This will work!"

I really like the bales on these and they just look a bit more handmade.  The larger bale can easily accommodate a much heavier chain, larger clasps and thick rubber or leather cords as well.



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About Me

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I enjoy silversmithing, making jewelry, beads and working with paracord. I sculpt in polymer clay and desert themes are my favorite. I'm always looking for ways to incorporate the beauty of nature into my work. My work has been published in a large book called "1000 Beads," Lark Jewelry and Beading, 2014. I have sold beads through the Glendale Bead Museum Shop, a gallery in Tucson and www.wearartbyjulie.etsy.com. I'm an artist currently showing my jewelry at the Shemer Art Center in Phoenix, AZ.